Inside the Private Dior Couture Collection of Azzedine Alaïa

courtesy of Damiani Books In recent years, the word “archive” has taken up colloquial residence in popular fashion discourse. Runway shows feature “archival” references, red carpet dresses are pulled from “archives,” and “archival” fashion auctions fetch top dollar. But the archives weren’t always so open. Many notable designers, like Jean-Paul Gaultier or Vivienne Westwood, never kept personal archives (though the brands likely do today). Except for a very special one belonging to Azzedine Alaïa.

Inside the Private Dior Couture Collection of Azzedine Alaïa. courtesy of Damiani Books In recent years, the word “archive” has taken up colloquial residence in popular fashion discourse. Runway shows feature “archival” references, red carpet dresses are pulled from “archives,” and “archival” fashion auctions fetch top dollar. But the archives weren’t always so open. Many notable designers, like Jean-Paul Gaultier or Vivienne Westwood, never kept personal archives (though the brands likely do today). Except for a very special one belonging to Azzedine Alaïa. The late French Tunisian designer, known for revolutionizing the way women dressed with bodycon silhouettes made from highly modern, technical fabrics, kept an archive of his creations from day one—back when this was not the standard. His collections, though, spanned far beyond his ow...